Fiordland (Māori: Te Rua-o-te-Moko, meaning "The Pit of Tattooing" and also called "the Shadowlands") is a region in the south-western part of New Zealand's South Island. It covers the western third of Southland. Fiordland has steep sides of the snow-covered Southern Alps, deep lakes, and western valleys that were carved by glaciers and are now flooded by the ocean. The name "Fiordland" comes from the New Zealand English spelling of the Scandinavian word "fjord," which means steep glacial valleys. Fiordland is mostly covered by

History

Fiordland has never had a large group of people living there all the time. Māori knew the area well but only visited it during certain times of the year for hunting, fishing, and collecting pounamu (New Zealand jade) from Anita Bay, which is at the mouth of Milford Sound / Piopiotahi. In Māori mythology, Fiordland is said to have been created by the demigod Tū-te-raki-whānoa, who carved the fiords from rock using his adze. As he moved north, he improved his carving skills, and he considered Milford Sound / Piopiotahi to be his greatest work.

The name Te Rua-o-te-Moko ("The Pit of Tattooing") comes from the visit of the Tākitimu migratory canoe to the area. According to traditional stories, the captain of the canoe, Tamatea, lost his tattooing ink in Taiari / Chalky Inlet. After the Tākitimu was wrecked at Te Waewae Bay, the crew decided to walk overland to the north of the South Island. While stopping at Te Anau, Tamatea dug a pit to burn wood and create soot for tattoo ink. Over time, the name Te Rua-o-te-Moko came to refer to the larger Fiordland area.

In 1770, Captain James Cook and his crew were the first Europeans to see Fiordland. Cook returned in 1773 and stayed in Tamatea / Dusky Sound for five weeks. The maps and descriptions from these expeditions attracted whalers and seal hunters, but it was not until the mid-1800s that surveyors and prospectors began exploring Fiordland’s interior.

Between 1897 and 1908, two attempts to start a mining operation in Rakituma / Preservation Inlet failed. By 1914, the small, isolated settlement of Cromartie (or Cromarty) there had been abandoned.

Fiordland was managed as Fiord County from 1876 until it became part of neighboring Wallace County in 1981. Since 1989, it has been part of Southland District and the larger Southland Region.

Boundaries

The Fiordland region has different definitions for its boundaries. According to Statistics New Zealand, the eastern boundary begins at Sand Hill Point on the western end of Te Waewae Bay and runs mostly straight north, passing through Lakes Hauroko, Monowai, Manapouri, and the South Fiord of Lake Te Anau. It then turns northwest and ends at the southern side of Te Houhou / George Sound. Using this definition, most of Fiordland lies within Fiordland National Park, except for small areas near the two southernmost lakes. However, this definition excludes the three northernmost fiords: Milford Sound / Piopiotahi, Te Hāpua / Sutherland Sound, and Hāwea / Bligh Sound.

A more commonly used definition of "Fiordland" includes all the fiords, the Hollyford Valley, and the area around Big Bay, which is north of Fiordland National Park but still part of the Southland Region. This definition is used by tourism organizations and the Department of Conservation. Many New Zealanders also consider the towns of Te Anau and Manapouri to be part of the Fiordland region, even though these towns are outside the national park’s boundary.

Geography

The Fiordland region includes large mountain areas to the west of a line connecting Te Waewae Bay to Monowai to Te Anau. It covers the valleys of the Eglinton River and Hollyford River / Whakatipu Kā Tuka. This area is nearly the same as Fiordland National Park and is known for its U-shaped valleys and fiords along the coast, as well as steep mountains made of hard rocks like gneiss, schist, granite, and diorite. Softer rocks were removed by repeated glaciers. Fiordland has New Zealand’s oldest known plutonic (igneous) rocks and includes the southernmost part of the Southern Alps, where mountain heights decrease from north to south.

The tallest mountain in Fiordland is Mount Tūtoko, which reaches 2,723 metres (8,934 ft). It is one of several peaks over 2,000 metres in the Darran Mountains. To the southeast, only a few mountains reach 2,000 metres. However, because of cold winters, rainy weather, and not many hot summers, these mountains still have glaciers and snow that stays year-round. The southernmost glacier is on Caroline Peak, which is 1,704 metres (5,591 ft) high. In the southwest of Fiordland, snowfields remain permanently at less than 1,500 metres (4,900 ft).

Past glaciers deeply shaped the landscape, creating fiord-like arms in Lake Manapouri and Lake Te Anau. Along the coast, glaciers also caused parts of the mainland to become separated, forming islands. The largest of these uninhabited islands are Resolution Island and Secretary Island. These islands are important for protecting endangered native birds.

Twelve fiords, some extending up to 40 kilometres (25 mi) inland, and two inlets leading to three more fiords stretch along the coast from Piopiotahi in the north to Rakituma / Preservation Inlet in the south. Generally, fiords become wider as mountains grow shorter from north to south. The southernmost fiords have outlets that look more like inlets, while inner parts such as Long Sound still resemble fiords.

• Milford Sound / Piopiotahi – the only fiord with road access
• Te Hāpua / Sutherland Sound
• Hāwea / Bligh Sound
• Te Houhou / George Sound – accessible via hiking trails
• Taitetimu / Caswell Sound
• Taiporoporo / Charles Sound
• Hinenui / Nancy Sound
• Te Awa-o-Tū / Thompson Sound
• Doubtful Sound / Patea – accessible via tours and hiking trails
• Te Rā / Dagg Sound
• Te Puaitaha / Breaksea Sound
• Tamatea / Dusky Sound – accessible via hiking trails
• Taiari / Chalky Inlet – leads into Edwardson Sound and Kanáris Sound
• Rakituma / Preservation Inlet – leads into Long Sound

Another sound, Kaikiekie / Bradshaw Sound, is an extension of Thompson and Doubtful Sounds after they meet at the eastern end of Secretary Island.

Ecology

The area is classified as the Fiordland temperate forests ecoregion, which includes many different types of habitats. Because it is isolated, it has a large number of plant species found only in that region. Most of Fiordland is covered with forests, except for areas where rocks are exposed on the surface. The natural habitats in Fiordland remain mostly untouched. Beech trees (Nothofagus species) are common in many areas, with silver beech (Nothofagus menziesii) growing near fiords and red beech (Nothofagus fusca) in inland valleys. Beneath the trees, there are many shrubs and ferns, such as crown fern (Blechnum discolor). Above the tree line, there are areas of scrubby plants, patches of wetland near mountain streams, and dunes dominated by rimu (Dacrydium cupressinum) in the Waitutu area on the south coast. Even though Fiordland is located at a latitude of mid-40s, the tree line is usually below 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). This is because summers are cool and the Southern Ocean affects the climate.

The area is home to several native bird species that are at risk of extinction, such as the flightless takahē and kiwi, blue duck (whio), and yellowhead (mōhua). The takahē was thought to be extinct for 50 years until a small group was found in Fiordland’s Murchison Mountains in 1948. Since then, the area has been managed by the Department of Conservation, which has trapped stoats and controlled deer to help increase the takahē population to over 200 and keep it stable.

There are also many insect species and one native reptile, the Fiordland skink (Oligosoma acrinasum). About 300 insect species are found only in Fiordland, including large ones like weta, giant caddis, and giant weevils. Some species are unusual, such as egg-laying worms, alpine cicadas, and brightly colored alpine moths. There are six types of native sandflies (blackfly, Simuliidae), with one species found only in Fiordland.

Most of the area is protected as part of Fiordland National Park, which is part of the Te Wahipounamu World Heritage Site. Fiordland National Park covers 12,600 square kilometers, making it the largest national park in New Zealand and one of the largest in the world. It includes many tourist attractions, such as Milford Sound, Doubtful Sound, and the Milford Track. The main threat to natural habitats comes from introduced species, especially red deer. These animals are now being hunted to reduce their numbers. The park also includes several small offshore islands that are free from introduced species and are designated as Specially Protected Areas.

Ten marine reserves have been created in Fiordland to protect a wide range of species and habitats. The first two reserves were established because of requests from the New Zealand Federation of Commercial Fishermen in 1993:

• Piopiotahi (Milford Sound) Marine Reserve
• Te Awaatu Channel (The Gut) Marine Reserve

An additional eight reserves were created based on recommendations from Fiordland Marine Guardians in 2005:

• Hawea (Clio Rocks) Marine Reserve
• Kahukura (Gold Arm) Marine Reserve
• Kutu Parera (Gaer Arm) Marine Reserve
• Moana Uta (Wet Jacket Arm) Marine Reserve
• Taipari Roa (Elizabeth Island) Marine Reserve
• Taumoana (Five Fingers Peninsula) Marine Reserve
• Te Hapua (Sutherland Sound) Marine Reserve
• Te Tapuwae o Hua (Long Sound) Marine Reserve

Demographics and economy

The Fiordland statistical area covers 12,065 square kilometers and had an estimated population of 130 as of June 2025, with a population density of 0.011 people per square kilometer. Almost all residents live in the Milford Sound village.

In 2018, Fiordland had a population of 111, which was 12 people (−9.8%) fewer than in 2013 and 33 people (−22.9%) fewer than in 2006. There were 3 households, with 54 males and 60 females, resulting in 0.9 males for every female. The median age was 28.2 years, compared to the national average of 37.4 years. Of the population, 3 people (2.7%) were under 15 years old, 69 (62.2%) were aged 15 to 29, 39 (35.1%) were aged 30 to 64, and 3 (2.7%) were 65 or older.

Ethnicity breakdowns showed 73.0% European/Pākehā, 8.1% Māori, 24.3% Asian, and 2.7% other ethnicities. Some individuals identified with more than one ethnicity.

Of the population, 62.2% were born overseas, compared to 27.1% nationally. While some people did not answer the census question about religion, 67.6% had no religion, 21.6% were Christian, 2.7% were Muslim, and 5.4% had other religions.

Among those aged 15 or older, 25% had a bachelor’s degree or higher, and 8.3% had no formal qualifications. The median income was $34,000, compared to $31,800 nationally. Only 2.8% earned over $70,000, compared to 17.2% nationally. Of those aged 15 or older, 94.4% were employed full-time, and 2.8% were employed part-time.

Fiordland, except for areas near Te Anau and Manapouri (which are not part of the statistical area), has had very few human inhabitants. It is the least-populated region of the South Island, with no villages or towns and many areas accessible only by boat or air. The nearest city is Invercargill, about 80 kilometers east of Fiordland’s southern end. The only major road in Fiordland is State Highway 94, also called Milford Road, which connects Te Anau to Milford Sound.

Blanket Bay Hotel, which is not a real hotel, may be the westernmost inhabited place in New Zealand. A small island at the head of Doubtful Sound/Patea has a refueling and supply depot with a jetty and helipad.

The region’s economy relies mainly on tourism, along with electricity generation (from the Manapouri Power Station and a smaller hydroelectric station at Lake Monowai) and some agriculture. In 2003, visitor spending totaled NZ$92 million, and 1,017 people were employed full-time in tourism, with an additional 1,900 working in tourism-related jobs. Most tourists visit Milford Sound/Piopiotahi, though hiking in the eastern parts of the Southern Alps is also popular. However, the region’s remoteness limits tourism, and most visitors return to places like Queenstown or Invercargill after short stays.