Artificial leather, also called synthetic leather, is a material made to replace real leather. It is used in items like furniture, clothing, shoes, and other products where a leather-like appearance is wanted but real leather is too expensive or not suitable for practical or ethical reasons. Artificial leather is also called by other names, such as leatherette, imitation leather, faux leather, vegan leather, PU leather (polyurethane), and pleather.

Uses

Artificial leathers are commonly used in clothing, furniture, boat seats, and car interiors. A main benefit in cars is that it needs less care than real leather. It does not crack or fade easily, though some types may wear down over time. Artificial leather made from polyurethane can be cleaned, but types made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are harder to clean.

The way artificial leather is made determines if it is breathable or waterproof. Some types allow air to pass through and are comfortable to wear, while others block water and air. Artificial leather with a microfiber backing is often used in clothing because it is soft and breathable.

Manufacture

Many different ways to make imitation leather have been created over time.

One method uses embossed paper, called casting paper, to shape the surface of the imitation leather. This paper holds the texture of real leather in reverse. To make the imitation leather, the paper is covered with several layers of plastic, such as PVC or polyurethane. These layers may include a color layer, a foam layer, an adhesive, a fabric layer, and a finish. Depending on the process, some layers may be wet or only partially dried when added. After the imitation leather is cured, the paper is removed and can be reused.

Scientists are developing a method to make collagen, the main part of real leather, using fermentation.

Vegan leather can be made from materials like fungi, yeast, and bacteria through biotechnology.

One of the first imitation leathers was called Presstoff. Created in 19th-century Germany, it was made from treated paper pulp. It was widely used in Germany during World War II when real leather was limited due to rationing. Presstoff could be used for most purposes that real leather was used for, except for items like shoes that needed to bend or resist moisture. Under these conditions, Presstoff often came apart and lost its strength.

Another early imitation leather was Rexine, a fabric made in the United Kingdom by Rexine Ltd. It was made from cloth covered with a mix of nitrocellulose, camphor oil, alcohol, and pigment. The surface was pressed to look like leather. Rexine was used for bookbinding and covering furniture, especially in cars and trains made by British companies starting in the 1920s. It cost about one-fourth the price of real leather.

Poromerics are made by coating a fibrous layer, usually polyester, with plastic, often polyurethane. The term "poromeric" was created by DuPont, combining the words "porous" and "polymeric." The first poromeric material was Corfam, made by DuPont and introduced in 1963. Corfam was a major part of DuPont’s display at the 1964 New York World’s Fair. After spending millions marketing Corfam to shoe makers, DuPont stopped selling it in 1971 and gave the rights to a company in Poland.

Leatherette is made by covering a fabric base with a soft layer of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). The fabric can be made from natural or synthetic fibers. Leatherette was often used for book covers and was common on the outside of cameras from the 20th century.

Cork leather is a natural alternative made from the bark of cork oak trees. The bark is pressed together, similar to how Presstoff was made.

Environmental effect

The production of PVC, used to make many artificial leathers, requires a chemical called phthalate to make the material soft and flexible. Making PVC often uses oil-based materials and a lot of energy. When PVC is thrown away in landfills, it does not break down like real leather and can release harmful chemicals, such as dioxins, into water and soil.

Polyurethane is now more commonly used than PVC for artificial leathers.

Some artificial leathers are made with plastic, while others, called plant-based leathers, are made only from plant materials. Using artificial materials in artificial leather production raises concerns about sustainability. However, some reports say that making artificial leather is still more sustainable than making real leather. A 2018 sustainability report by Kering, called the Environmental Profit & Loss, found that the environmental impact of vegan-leather production can be up to one-third less than that of real leather.

Some artificial leathers may contain small amounts of limited substances, such as a paint ingredient called butanone oxime, according to a study by the FILK Freiberg Institute.

Brand names

• Alcantara
• Clarino: This material is made by Kuraray Co., Ltd. in Japan.
• Fabrikoid: A DuPont brand, this fabric is made by coating cotton cloth with nitrocellulose.
• Kirza: A material developed in Russia during the 1930s. It is made from cotton fabric, latex, and rosin.
• MB-Tex: This material is used in the base trims of many Mercedes-Benz cars.
• Naugahyde: An American brand created by Uniroyal.
• Pantasote: A famous American brand from the 1890s that made imitation leather.
• Piñatex: This material is made from pineapple leaves.
• Rexine: A British brand.
• Skai: Made by the German company Konrad Hornschuch AG. Its name is now used as a general term in Germany and nearby countries.