Organic cotton is cotton that is grown in subtropical countries, such as India, Turkey, China, and parts of the USA. It comes from plants that are not genetically modified and is grown without using synthetic agricultural chemicals, like fertilizers or pesticides, except for those approved by certified organic labeling. The production of organic cotton aims to support biodiversity and natural cycles. In the United States, cotton farms must follow rules set by the National Organic Program (NOP) from the USDA to be considered organic. This program decides which methods are allowed for controlling pests, growing crops, using fertilizer, and handling organic cotton.

In 2007, 265,517 bales of organic cotton were produced in 24 countries. Worldwide production increased by more than 50% each year. During the 2016/2017 season, global production reached 3.2 million metric tonnes.

Ecological footprint

Cotton grows on 2.5% of the world's farmland but uses 10-16% of the world's pesticides, more than any other major crop. The high use of chemicals in non-organic cotton farming has these environmental effects:

• Chemicals from cotton processing pollute the air and water.
• Pesticides reduce the variety of plant and animal life and change the balance of ecosystems.

When comparing organic and conventional cotton, it is important to compare based on how much cotton is produced, not just the amount of land used. Organic cotton farms usually produce less cotton per hectare than conventional farms. This difference in production means that making the same amount of cotton fiber may use more water in organic farming compared to conventional methods.

Pesticides

USDA-certified organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides. Organic farmers may use a variety of approved pesticides, such as pyrethrins from plants, copper sulfate to kill slugs and prevent fungal diseases, and insecticidal soaps. Sometimes, organic pesticides are used in larger amounts than in conventional farming because organic crops often produce smaller yields. These organic pesticides can be just as harmful as the synthetic ones used in conventional farming.

In contrast, conventional cotton farming often uses synthetic pesticides. Fields that switch from conventional to organic farming must be tested to ensure no pesticide remains in the soil, a process that takes 2–3 years. Some companies test cotton or fabric themselves to confirm farmers follow organic rules. The use of insecticides, herbicides, fertilizers, and water has decreased in conventional farming because many farmers now grow genetically modified (GM) cotton. In 2014, GM cotton was grown on more than 95% of cotton farms in the U.S., India, and China. Organic certification rules do not allow the use of GM cotton varieties.

Distribution of organic cotton production

As of 2018, organic cotton made up only 1-2% of all cotton produced worldwide. The biggest producers are India (51%), China (19%), Turkey (7%), and Kyrgyzstan (7%). Organic cotton is also grown in at least eight countries in Africa. The first organic cotton producer in Africa was the SEKEM organization in Egypt in 1990. Farmers there later helped the Egyptian government change 400,000 hectares of regular cotton farming to use combined methods. This change reduced synthetic pesticide use by 90% and increased crop yields by 30% in Egypt.

Many companies and industry programs work to support organic cotton farming. Companies like Nike, Walmart, and C&A use organic cotton in their products. The United States Organic Trade Association says the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the most important worldwide certification for organic fibers.